As a child Marijo, who was born just south of Dubrovnik, spent four years living in a hotel room with his two siblings and parents after his family’s home was burned down by the Yugoslav army. The Yugoslav Army was defeated in Dubrovnik after only a few months, but the attack on civilian homes around Dubrovnik forced many residents to live like refugees for years until they could rebuild their homes.
Dubrovnik is located 25 miles (41km) from the border with Montenegro. As of the beginning of October 1991, Montenegro and Serbia were the only countries that had not declared independence from Yugoslavia. The region’s proximity to Montenegro and the regional airport made it a logistically desirable area for the Yugoslav Army, which was controlled by the remnants of Yugoslavia: Serbia and Montenegro.
The Yugoslav Army aimed to control the region surrounding Dubrovnik and to blockade Dubrovnik from land and sea to force the Croatian Army to surrender by starving the army of military resources. [1] To further this goal, the Yugoslav Army began shelling Dubrovnik on October 1, 1991. [2] The stone walls surrounding Dubrovnik’s Old Town were equipped to defend its people against medieval warfare, but these walls could not protect the city from modern artillery that rained on its roofs from the hills above. The Old Town was shelled for the first time on October 23-24 and again on November 9, 10, 11, and 12. [3]
As of December 1991, despite being outnumbered in artillery, Croatian forces continued to hold control of Srd, the hill directly behind Dubrovnik. Yugoslav forces viewed Srd as critical to gaining control over the surrounding area because they could more easily fire decisive strikes on Croatian positions from Srd’s heights. [4] In a push to take Srd, Yugoslav forces shelled the Old Town for a third time on December 6 for over ten and a half hours causing the death of two civilians. [5]
Since 1899, the international laws of war have prohibited the intentional destruction of cultural property. In 1979, the Old Town of Dubrovnik was named a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and this designation made the Old Town’s status as protectable cultural property undeniable.
One defense to the criminal charge of intentional destruction of cultural property is the cultural property was being used as a military position. The International Criminal Tribunal for the Former Yugoslavia found that there was a general concern among citizens not to violate the military-free status of the Old Town, which was a condition of its World Heritage status. [6] In addition, numerous international observers staying in the Old Town at the time of the shelling did not detect any military activity inside the walls. [7] As a result, this defense failed and the tribunal concluded there was no military necessity for shelling the Old Town.
The Old Town was not just a site of cultural importance but also where 7,000-8,000 civilians lived and worked. In addition to the crime of destruction of cultural property, the shelling of the Old Town also constituted an unlawful attack on a civilian population and civilian objects. [8]
Travel Tips
If you travel to Dubrovnik by car, it is recommended to stay in lodging outside the Old Town at a hotel or vacation rental that offers parking. Cars are not permitted in the Old Town. Parking can be difficult to find during popular travel times and most parking near the gates to the Old Town is expensive.
If you prefer a quieter, less crowded location, try staying further south on the coast in Cavtat. Boats travel multiple times per day from Cavtat to Dubrovnik.
Museums and Sites
War Photo Limited in the Old Town has multiple galleries of professional photos depicting war and conflict, including a permanent collection titled The End of Yugoslavia. This gallery is a must-see.
Take a cable car or walk to Srd, the hill overlooking Dubrovnik, and visit the museum about the siege of Dubrovnik. Srd can be accessed by foot on a well-marked trail up the face of the hill or by cable car that departs just outside the eastern side of the Old Town.
Walk the Old Town wall. The walls are massive and impressive. You can start the wall tour near the Pile gate and the Ploče gate. There is a scenic spot for drinks and gelato on the wall overlooking the sea for a break on a hot day. The bar does not accept credit card so remember to bring Croatian dinar. Plan for about 2 hours to walk the wall.
Water Access
A public beach is located just south of the Old Town harbor. Go to the Old Town’s Ploče Gate and continue south on the road parallel to the water for about 5 minutes. You will see stairs leading down to the beach.
People gather on the rocks outside the wall on the southwest edge of the Old Town. This is a popular swimming and diving area and a spot to watch the sunset. You can access these rocks by going to Buza Bar on the further-most street in the Old Town parallel to the sea and then taking the stairs down through the bar to the rocks.